The Art Of French Cheese: A Regional Guide

French cheese is a diverse and vibrant part of the country's culinary heritage, with a wide range of flavours, textures, and forms. There are an estimated 1,000 to 1,600 distinct types of French cheese, with the majority classified as Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the highest level of protection. French cheeses are traditionally made from three types of milk: cow's milk, goat's milk, and sheep's milk (ewe's milk). They are also divided into cheeses from the farmhouse (fromages fermiers) and industrially manufactured cheeses. The regional varieties of French cheese are shaped by the history, climate, and craftspeople of their regions, with traditional production methods being the cornerstone of this diversity. Paris, known as the Ville des Fromages or the City of Cheese, is a great place to start exploring the world of French cheese.

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Traditional production methods

French cheeses are made from three types of milk: cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk. They are further divided into farmhouse cheeses (fromages fermiers) and industrially manufactured cheeses. Farmhouse cheeses are made on farms and include goat cheese, which is available all year round, and Camembert, with its hand-ladled curds. Farmhouse cheeses also include those made from the milk of cows that graze at high altitudes, such as Salers and Laguiole, which tend to be more expensive and are generally aged longer.

Industrial cheeses, on the other hand, are mass-produced and include Raclette, which is designed for a meal where thin slices of cheese are heated and melted and then poured over baked potatoes and eaten with gherkins, ham, and other accompaniments.

French cheeses are also distinguished by their regional origins, with traditional regional cheeses bearing the "appellation d'origine protégée" (AOP) label, indicating a protected designation of origin. For example, Beaufort, a hard, unpasteurized cheese produced in the Savoie region of the French Alps, has strict regulations surrounding its production, with only about 15 producers still employing traditional methods. Similarly, Abondance is made in Alpine chalets and has a strong aroma and a complex flavor, while Chèvre, or goat cheese, is made throughout France in various shapes and sizes.

In addition to regional origins, French cheeses can be categorized by their texture, ranging from soft cheeses like Camembert and Fromager d'Affinois, to pressed cheeses like Cantal, which is similar to English farmhouse cheddar, and finally, blue cheeses like Roquefort, which is considered one of the best in the world.

Regional authenticity

French cheeses are more than just food; they are cultural artefacts, shaped by the history, climate, and craftspeople of their regions. Traditional production methods are the cornerstone of this diversity, preserving the artisanal techniques and local knowledge that have been passed down through generations.

French cheeses are broadly grouped into eight categories, 'les huit familles de fromage'. Under the Common Agricultural Policy of the European Union, certain established cheeses, including many French varieties, are covered by a protected designation of origin (PDO), and other, less stringent, designations of geographical origin for traditional specialities, such as the EU Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).

The majority of French cheeses are classified as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the highest level of protection. This classification ensures that the cheese not only tastes exceptional but also carries the legacy of its terroir and the hands that made it.

For example, Beaufort is a large, hard, unpasteurized wheel of cheese produced in the Savoie region of the French Alps. There are three categories of Beaufort, and Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage is the most scarce, with only about 15 producers still employing its traditional production method. The more common Beaufort AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) is made in cooperative dairies between November and May from the milk of cows that graze in mountain valleys.

Another example is Chèvre, or goat cheese, which is made throughout France in various shapes and sizes. The most famous Chèvres are the Chèvres de la Loire (AOC). These delicate chèvres are made throughout the verdant Loire Valley and include Crottin de Chavignol, shaped like a drum, and Sainte-Maure de Tourtaines, a thick stick covered.

Pasteurised vs raw milk

Pasteurised and raw milk are both used in cheesemaking, with the process of pasteurisation discovered by French scientist Louis Pasteur in 1862. There are benefits and drawbacks to both methods.

Pasteurised Milk

Milk is pasteurised using two types of heat treatment: Low Temperature Long Hold (LTLH) and High Temperature Short Hold (HTSH). In LTLH, milk is heated to 149° F for 30 to 40 minutes, while in HTSH, milk is heated to 174° F for 22 to 40 seconds. Pasteurisation kills harmful bacteria such as Listeria, E. coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Salmonella, which can be present in raw milk. It also makes the cheese more stable, with a consistent texture and flavour. Pasteurised milk is more widely available and less expensive than raw milk.

Raw Milk

Raw milk is milk that has not been pasteurised. It is usually sold within 48 hours of milking the animal, making it fresher than pasteurised milk. The flavour of raw milk varies throughout the season, and it is believed to create more flavourful and nuanced cheese. This is because it contains beneficial bacteria, which give the cheese a sharper, more distinct taste. Raw milk is also free of artificial hormones and additives. However, raw milk is more difficult to find and can be twice as expensive as pasteurised milk. It also carries a higher risk of containing harmful bacteria, which can be dangerous for consumers. In the US, raw milk cheeses must be aged for at least 60 days to protect consumers from these bacteria.

The choice between pasteurised and raw milk in cheesemaking depends on various factors, including availability, flavour, safety, and cost. While pasteurised milk ensures safety and consistency, raw milk offers a more nuanced flavour profile and is free of artificial additives. Ultimately, the decision comes down to the cheesemaker's priorities and the specific requirements of the cheese being produced.

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Goat's cheese

French goat's cheese, or chèvre, is made from goat's milk. Goats produce high-quality, nutrient-rich milk and can survive in environments where cattle and sheep cannot, making them valuable livestock. Goat's milk contains higher proportions of medium-chain fatty acids, such as caproic and caprylic acids, which give the cheese its characteristic tart flavour. It is also rich in anti-inflammatory enzymes, probiotics, antioxidants, proteins, and lipids.

There are over 6,000 goat cheese producers in France, and countless artisanal varieties. However, only 15 French goat's cheeses bear an AOP stamp (Appellation d'Origine Protégée), which protects the name and origin of the product. Some of the best French goat's cheeses include:

• Pouligny-Saint-Pierre: This was the first French goat cheese to earn an AOP stamp in 1972. It is pyramid-shaped, with a bloomy white rind and blue mould patches. It has a firm yet supple texture and a wide range of flavours, from delicate to pronounced, with hints of hazelnut.
• Banon: A small, round cheese weighing around 100g, wrapped in chestnut leaves. It has a soft, creamy texture and a mild flavour elevated by the infusion of tannins from the leaves.
• Rocamadour: A tiny, flat disc of cheese with a white, ivory or dark beige rind. It has a soft and creamy texture, delivering a distinctive goat flavour.
• Rigotte de Condrieu: Weighing only 35g, this is one of the smallest AOP cheeses in France. It is a flat cylinder with an irregular ivory rind and a soft, melting texture that reveals delicate flavours of hazelnut.
• Tomme de Chèvre: This goat's cheese is unlike any other. It can be grated or shaved and added to salads, bruschetta, or pasta.
• Crottin de Chavignol: A famous cheese from the Loire Valley, made from whole goat's milk and moulded, salted, dried, and ripened.

Protected designation of origin

France is known for its diverse range of cheeses, with an estimated 1,000 to 1,600 distinct types. To protect and regulate the production and quality of these cheeses, France, as a member of the European Union, adheres to the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) framework.

The PDO is a geographical indication established by European Union law to safeguard the names and origins of regional foods. This regulation ensures that products bearing the PDO logo are genuinely produced, processed, and developed within a specific geographical area, utilising the expertise of local producers and ingredients sourced from the region. The PDO legislation was enacted in 1992 and is applicable in the EU and Northern Ireland, with the UK retaining its registration post-Brexit.

The PDO framework serves as a consumer protection measure, assuring buyers that the products meet specific conditions of production and origin. It also safeguards the reputation of regional products, ensuring fair competition among producers. The PDO logo is mandatory for designated products, and the European Commission's Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development maintains a register of protected designations.

In the context of French cheese, the PDO system helps preserve the authenticity and quality of traditional cheeses. For instance, the Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage variety of Beaufort cheese has strict regulations, including the requirement that dairy cows graze in Alpine pastures above 1500 meters during the summer. Similarly, the Roquefort designation mandates that the cheese is made from the milk of a specific breed of sheep and matured in natural caves near the town of Roquefort in the Aveyron region, where it is infected with a particular fungus.

The PDO framework also covers other food items beyond cheese, such as wines, hams, sausages, olives, beers, fruits, and vegetables, ensuring that products bearing specific regional names, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Champagne, and Camembert de Normandie, originate from their designated regions.

Frequently asked questions