The Art Of Cheese Making: A Balancing Act

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Cheese is a beloved food product made from milk. The process of cheesemaking likely originated by accident when milk was stored in a container made from an animal's stomach, causing it to curdle and separate into solid curds and liquid whey. Today, cheesemakers follow a general process that begins with milk preparation, including pasteurization and the addition of starter cultures to acidify the milk. The milk is then curdled, cut into curds, and processed to release whey. The curds are salted, pressed into shape, and aged to create the final product. While the basic process is consistent, variations in ingredients, aging, and other factors result in the diverse range of cheeses enjoyed worldwide.

Characteristics Values
Base Ingredients Milk, cultures, coagulants, salt
Other Ingredients Spices, herbs, wine
Milk Source Cows, goats, sheep, buffalo, camels, other mammals
Milk Processing Pasteurization, mild heat treatment, standardization
Milk Standardization Adjusting protein-to-fat ratio, adding fat, cream, or protein
Starter Cultures Bacteria from Lactococcus, Lactobacillus, Streptococcus genera
Acidification Adding vinegar, using starter bacteria
Curdling Adding coagulants, using rennet (lab-created rennin)
Ripening Aging or ripening for varying durations
Shaping Pressing into blocks, hoops, or molds
Preservation Salting
Flavoring Adding garlic, peppers, or other ingredients
Aging In cold storage or cheese caves for months or years

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Milk is the star ingredient

Once collected, the milk is taken to a cheese plant to be tested and processed. Cheesemakers will test the milk to ensure it passes quality and purity tests. The milk is then standardized, which may involve manipulating the protein-to-fat ratio by adding more fat, cream, or protein. This step is important to ensure a consistent base milk for a consistent cheese. Milk preparation often involves pasteurization or mild heat treatment to kill any harmful bacteria and to prime the milk for the next step.

After heating or pasteurizing, the milk is cooled to a specific temperature to prepare it for the addition of starter cultures. These cultures, which are bacteria, are added to the milk to acidify and ripen it, converting milk sugars into lactic acid. Different types of cultures are used to create different types of cheese, and they play a large role in determining the eventual flavor and texture of the cheese.

The next step is to curdle the milk, which can be done in a few ways. Most commonly, a coagulant like rennet is added to cause a reaction that turns the milk into coagulated lumps, known as curds. Rennet is the lab-created equivalent of rennin, an enzyme produced by nursing animals to digest their mother's milk. The curdling process can also happen naturally over time, with some cheeses relying solely on bacteria to curdle the milk.

Once the milk has curdled, cheesemakers will use knives to cut the coagulated milk into chunks, separating the curds from the whey. The whey is a liquid byproduct that remains after the curds have formed. The curds and whey are then left to separate and ferment. At this point, the curds should form a large coagulated mass, and the cheesemaker will cut through the curds to release more whey.

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Curdling the milk

Milk is the key ingredient in cheese, and the process of making cheese involves converting milk into cheese. The first step in cheesemaking is to separate the solids from the liquids, which is called coagulation or curdling. Curdling the milk can be done in several ways.

One way to curdle milk is by acidifying or souring it. This can be done directly by adding an acid such as vinegar (in the case of paneer or queso fresco) or, more commonly, by adding starter bacteria that convert milk sugars into lactic acid. These bacteria also play a significant role in the flavour of aged cheeses. Most cheeses use starter bacteria from the Lactococcus, Lactobacillus, or Streptococcus genera. Swiss starter cultures, for example, include Propionibacterium freudenreichii, which produces propionic acid and carbon dioxide gas bubbles during aging, giving Emmental cheese its distinctive holes. Some fresh cheeses are curdled solely by acidity, but most also use rennet. Rennet is a lab-created equivalent of rennin, an enzyme produced in the stomachs of nursing animals like calves, piglets, and lambs to help them digest their mother's milk. Rennet causes a reaction with milk proteins, turning them into coagulated lumps or curds.

Another method of curdling milk is by using kefir, a fermented milk drink. Kefir contains a variety of cultures that can curdle milk. The curdled milk can be left to sit in the fridge for several weeks until a sufficient amount is collected. The whey is then strained off, and the curds are pressed and seasoned with salt, herbs, or spices to taste.

After curdling the milk, cheesemakers typically slice through the curds with long knives to separate them from the whey. This step is followed by processing the curds, which involves stirring, cooking, and washing them to acidify and dry them. The whey is then drained, leaving a mat of cheese curds. These curds are then cut into sections and flipped repeatedly before milling.

The curds are then left to rest under controlled conditions during the aging or ripening process. This period can last from a few days to several years, during which microbes and enzymes transform the texture and intensify the flavour of the cheese.

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Adding bacteria

Most cheeses are made with starter bacteria from the Lactococcus, Lactobacillus, or Streptococcus genera. The type of bacteria used will depend on the type of cheese being made. For example, Swiss cheese uses Propionibacterium freudenreichii, which produces carbon dioxide gas bubbles during aging, giving Emmental cheese its distinctive holes. Brie and Blue cheese also use different starter cultures to Swiss cheese. The same bacteria (and the enzymes they produce) play a large role in the eventual flavour of aged cheeses.

Some fresh cheeses are curdled by acidity alone, but most cheeses also use rennet, which is added after the starter cultures. Rennet is the lab-created equivalent of rennin, an enzyme produced by nursing animals to help them digest their mother's milk. Rennet causes the milk to gel and separate into curds (the solids) and whey (the liquid). The curds are then cut, allowing the whey to come out. The curds are then stirred and heated to release more whey.

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Draining the whey

There are various methods for draining the whey, and the choice depends on the type of cheese being made. One common method is to use a draining bag, which is affordable, efficient, and versatile. Draining bags can be hung from a kitchen faucet, cabinet, or pot. Alternatively, a strainer or colander lined with a cheesecloth or mesh can be used, especially for softer cheeses that retain more moisture. Cheesecloth comes in different grades, such as unbleached and bleached butter muslin, with varying thread counts to suit different types of cheese and the amount of cheese being drained.

Another technique is to use a draining mat, which is ideal for soft, fresh, and large curd cheeses. The cheese mixture is placed on the mat, and the whey is allowed to drain through. The drained whey is not wasted; it can be collected and used to produce gas through biological fermentation, which can then fuel the dairy's boiler unit.

The spontaneous draining phase occurs without mechanical assistance. Cheeses are left to drain naturally, and the moulds are manually turned twice to encourage whey elimination. This process continues until the cheese reaches a sufficiently solid texture, usually by the third day, when it can be unmoulded and dried in a refrigerated room.

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Aging the cheese

Affinage, or the art of aging cheese, is a crucial step in the cheesemaking process. It involves taking young, freshly pressed curds and transforming them over time into the myriad varieties of cheese we know today. The aging process can vary from simple techniques like vacuum sealing cheese in a plastic bag and letting it age on a shelf to more complex methods like introducing different techniques to prime the surface of the cheese.

The microbial activity that allows for maturation and development in cheese is influenced by certain conditions of humidity and temperature. Sealed cheeses, for example, retain more moisture, which increases bioactivity and allows more microbes to work on flavour development. Additionally, the type of bacteria used in the cheesemaking process plays a significant role in the eventual flavour of aged cheeses.

The aging process also contributes to the cheese's texture. Through the choices, actions, and inactions of the affineur (a person who refines cheese), the cheese can become a hard, crumbly variety with notes of horseradish and mustard, or a soft, oozy cheese with a distinctive smell and taste.

The duration of aging further impacts the final product. For instance, aged cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano and Gouda develop a deep, nutty flavour over time. Hard cheeses, such as Parmesan, also tend to have a longer shelf life compared to softer cheeses like Brie or goat's milk cheese.

Frequently asked questions

Cheese is made from milk, which is collected from dairy farms. The milk is then processed and standardised, before being pasteurised to kill any dangerous bacteria. After this, good bacteria, or "starter cultures", are added to the milk to ferment the lactose. Different types of cultures are used to create different types of cheese.

The cheesemaking process differs depending on the type of cheese, but all cheesemaking follows the same general process. After milk is collected and processed, cultures are added so that the milk ferments and becomes more acidic. A coagulant is then added to the milk to cause a reaction that curdles the milk, creating curds. The curds are then cut with knives to separate them from the whey (the liquid). The curds are then processed by being stirred, cooked, and washed to acidify and dry them. The whey is then drained, and the curds are cut into sections and flipped repeatedly before milling. The curds are then salted and pressed into a form, and the cheese is then aged.

The amount of time cheese is aged for depends on the type of cheese. For example, mild cheddar cheese is aged for 2-3 months, while extra sharp cheese can be aged for a whole year. Cheddar can also be aged for years, which gives it a stronger flavour and a more crumbly texture.

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