Unpasteurized Milk: Which Cheeses Are Made This Way?

Raw-milk or unpasteurized-milk cheese is a controversial topic, with some believing it cures allergies and others deeming it dangerous. In the United States, raw-milk cheese must be aged for at least 60 days before being sold to consumers, as this is thought to be sufficient time for the acids and salt in the cheese to destroy harmful bacteria. Despite the controversy, many people love the texture and flavour of raw-milk cheese, and some cheesemakers believe that using raw milk creates more flavourful and nutritious cheeses. Examples of raw-milk cheeses include Comte, Brie de Meaux, Pitchfork Cheddar, and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Characteristics and Values

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Raw milk cheese's distinct flavour and texture

Raw milk cheeses have distinct flavours and textures that are influenced by a variety of factors, including the bacterial cultures present in the milk, the cheesemaking process, and the ageing and storage conditions.

Firstly, raw milk cheeses retain the natural bacterial cultures present in the milk, which can contribute to their unique flavour and texture profiles. By using raw milk, cheesemakers can introduce specific flavours that are distinct to their cheese. The bacterial cultures in raw milk act as "starters" in the cheesemaking process, and different starters can result in different flavour and texture outcomes. This allows cheesemakers to personalise their cheese and create unique products that stand out in the market.

Secondly, the cheesemaking process itself can impact the flavour and texture of raw milk cheeses. Factors such as the type of cheese, the curdling method, and the ageing and storage conditions can all influence the final product. For example, raw milk cheeses may be firm, oozy, creamy, or crumbly, depending on the cheesemaking technique employed.

Additionally, the ageing and storage conditions of raw milk cheese can also affect their flavour and texture. Raw milk cheeses are typically aged for a minimum of 60 days, as per regulations in certain countries, to allow the acids and salts in the cheese to naturally prevent the growth of harmful bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella, and E. coli. This ageing process can influence the flavour and texture development in the cheese, contributing to their distinct characteristics.

The distinct flavour profiles of raw milk cheeses have been described as deeper and more complex when compared to pasteurised cheeses. Some people believe that raw milk cheeses have exceptional flavours that cannot be replicated in pasteurised cheeses. However, it is important to note that the perception of flavour differences between raw and pasteurised milk cheeses may be influenced by individual experiences and preferences.

In conclusion, raw milk cheeses have distinct flavours and textures that result from a combination of factors, including the retention of natural bacterial cultures in the milk, the cheesemaking process, and the ageing and storage conditions. These factors allow cheesemakers to create unique, personalised products that offer a range of sensory experiences for consumers.

Raw milk cheese's controversial health benefits

Raw milk cheese is a controversial topic, with some believing it to be incredibly dangerous and others extolling its health benefits. The controversy has intensified with the FDA's increased inspections of raw milk cheese, leading some to speculate about potential changes to regulations or even a ban.

One of the primary concerns with raw milk is the presence of harmful pathogens, such as Listeria, E. coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Salmonella. To address this, the U.S. government has mandated that cheese made from unpasteurized milk must be aged for at least 60 days before sale, a rule that has been in place since 1949. This aging period is intended to allow the acids and salt in the cheese to destroy harmful bacteria. However, critics argue that the 60-day rule is arbitrary and lacks scientific evidence, preventing the importation of traditional raw milk cheeses like Camembert, which is aged for only two weeks.

Proponents of raw milk cheese argue that it offers several health benefits. Firstly, they claim that raw milk helps soothe allergies and ailments like asthma and hay fever. Additionally, raw milk cheese is believed to contain healthy bacteria that support digestive health and alleviate lactose intolerance. The cheese also contains bioavailable nutrients, including vitamins A, B, D, E, and K, as well as body-building "complete" proteins that provide all nine essential amino acids. Furthermore, raw milk cheese is said to have a more developed flavor, reflecting the cows' diet, and may be preferred by those who find processed cheese difficult to digest.

The debate around raw milk cheese also extends to its safety. While some believe that milk from well-treated cows kept in sanitary conditions is safe and pathogen-free, others argue that the only truly safe cheese is pasteurized cheese. This controversy has led to varying regulations worldwide, with some countries treasuring and preferring raw cheese while others impose stricter restrictions.

Raw milk cheese in the US

Raw milk cheese is made with milk that has not been pasteurized. Raw milk cheeses can come in a variety of textures, from firm to oozy to creamy to crumbly, and can be shaped into wheels or blocks. They are almost always made by small-scale artisanal producers and often come from the milk of a single herd of cows, sheep, or goats.

Raw milk has been used for centuries to make cheese because of its unique flavour—the rich array of well-defined flavours and aromatics, the depth of complexity, and the unmistakable sense of uniqueness. When milk is heated, many naturally occurring flavour-rich enzymes (the good bacteria) are destroyed or denatured by the heat, and the cheese loses that important flavour-building foundation. Raw-milk cheese also imparts "terroir", or the "taste of place", which means that the cheese takes on the unique characteristics of the land in which it is made.

However, raw milk cheese has been a controversial topic for quite some time, with strong arguments on each side. Opponents of raw milk assert that the only truly safe cheese is pasteurized cheese. Cows kept in dirty, confined conditions are much more likely to develop udder infections or other illnesses that can contaminate milk. Raw milk proponents, on the other hand, argue that milk from well-treated cows kept in sanitary conditions is safe and pathogen-free. Some people also believe that raw milk cures allergies and a host of other ailments.

In the United States, the sale of raw-milk cheese has been forbidden by the U.S. government since 1949 unless the cheese is aged for at least 60 days. This rule was designed to allow the acids and salt in the cheese enough time to destroy harmful bacteria such as listeria, salmonella, and E. coli. The rule also applies to imported raw-milk cheese, which means that traditional raw-milk cheeses such as Camembert, which is aged for only two weeks, cannot be imported into the U.S. unless they are pasteurized.

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Raw milk cheese in Europe

Raw milk cheese has a long history in Europe, dating back to the sixth millennium BC. The fermentation of raw milk contributed to its preservation and improved its digestibility. Over the past few millennia, this process evolved locally, resulting in a variety of recipes that form the basis of today's artisan raw milk cheeses.

In Europe, raw milk cheese production is particularly significant in countries with a strong tradition of cheesemaking, such as France, Switzerland, and Italy. In these countries, raw milk is considered essential for valorising their dairy heritage. Traditional raw milk cheeses have also gained recognition through protected designation of origin (PDO) labels, which certify that the product is produced, processed, and prepared within a specific geographical area.

Despite the popularity of raw milk cheeses in Europe, there are concerns about the potential health risks associated with consuming raw milk products. Raw milk may contain pathogenic bacteria such as Listeria, E. coli, Salmonella, and Campylobacter, which can lead to dangerous milk-borne diseases. As a result, countries have implemented varying regulations regarding the sale and consumption of raw milk and its products.

In the United Kingdom, for example, five of the eleven PDO cheeses require pasteurised milk, while four PDOs allow the use of either pasteurised or raw milk. This is due to the UK's high food safety standards, which prioritise the safety of dairy products.

Despite the potential health risks, proponents of raw milk cheese argue that it offers unique flavour profiles and nutritional benefits. The absence of pasteurisation means that raw milk cheeses retain the bacterial load from their milk, resulting in distinct flavours that cannot be replicated using pasteurised milk. Additionally, supporters of raw milk consumption believe that it can contribute to building a healthy immune system and offer protection from allergies.

Examples of raw milk cheeses

Raw milk cheese is made with milk that has not been heat-treated (pasteurized). Before the invention of pasteurization in 1822, all cheese was made with raw milk. Archaeologists have discovered pottery remnants in Nordic countries with preserved dairy samples from some of the first civilizations.

Raw milk cheese is categorized as a traditional food, and many people love the texture and richer, more complex flavor of raw-milk cheese. Some cheesemakers believe that using raw milk creates more flavorful and more nutritious cheeses.

• Cato Corner Hooligan: This cheese is known for its strong smell and is described as "meaty and practically cries out for a Belgian ale to gulp alongside it."
• Vermont Shepherd: This cheese is made by one of the first artisan sheep milk producers in the United States. It is described as sweet, with the texture of soft lanolin and hints of pasture herbs.
• Silver Mountain: An example of a raw milk semi-hard cheese.
• Beecher's Flagship Reserve: Another example of a raw milk semi-hard cheese.
• Pitchfork Cheddar: A juicy and acidic raw milk, cloth-bound cheddar that won the Best British Cheese title at the 2019 World Cheese Awards.
• Comte PDO: A hard cheese with 83 flavor profiles that range from milky-sweet and citrussy to toasted bread and roasted peanuts.
• Parmigiano Reggiano PDO: This cheese is known for its umami flavor, which develops from citrus and hazelnuts to pineapple, walnuts, and pepper as it matures.

In the United States, any raw milk cheese must be aged for at least 60 days before being sold to consumers to protect them from harmful pathogens. This rule was set in 1949 to allow acids and salt in the cheese enough time to destroy harmful bacteria.

Frequently asked questions